Milan Fashion Week: 60s cool and chic

Milan Fashion Week is over and Paris is now closing the show. I know it’s a bit late but I just wanted to make a quick comment on Milan’s. If you haven’t seen all the runway shows yet, style.com them and prepare yourself to travel back in time next season.

Armani’s shade of grey /

Both Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani collections were toned in the grey palette, with some bits of black, white and even ice/aqua blue here and there. Overall, it’s very working-girl, lots of coats and blazer, tightened at the waist and very Mad Men sometimes and I insist on the ‘Men’ because more than ever it seems that Giorgio was inspired by men’s wardrobe just like JW Anderson was by women’s during LC:M.

Dolce’s fairy tale and Gabbana’s innocent girl /

D&G was certainly one of the highlights of this fashion week. The show itself was magnificent, perfectly staged and you can really feel the luxury and craftsmanship when you look at the collection. To be honest, most of the pieces are not very wearable unless you’re AdR or if you’re willing to spend thousands of dollars in a Bal Costumé outfit. But these little Red Ridding Hoods will certainly make unique archive pieces. Special mention to these medieval-knights ‘helmets’, Dolce’s went even further with the time-machine.

Gucci and Versace, yé yé /

These two really embraced the return to the sixties and when I look at their collections I can’t help but think about these yé-yé French girls. Of course each of them portrayed it differently but the main inspiration is in this era.

Gucci’s went all sixties with high-waist skirts, coats and and dresses with a roundish cut, signature of the sixties fashion. All in curves but very simple and minimal at the same time. However, thank god, they didn’t use the extravagant (and sometimes mauvais gout) colour palettes from the sixties, I mean these rusted orange, yellow and red with psychedelic prints. It’s all in the blue, green, peach and yellow pastels. And please, praise these aviator-starsky&hutchesque sunglasses. They’re just fa-bu-lous. I need a pair. Right now.

On the other hand, Donatella declined the modern cowboy she presented during Men’s Fashion Week last month into a female version. Versace’s whole new RTW AW14 collection is now consistent and turns around this concept. The sixties’ influence is not that obvious here, except the models’ hair and a couple dresses. Big medusa heads all-over, fringes and fierceness; this is what sums this collection up in a few words. Fierce all the time: when models walk, the jewellery, the bags, the clothes, everything. It’s just a real pleasure to watch the runway show and to the detractors who say that Versace’s clothes are not wearable and too extravagant, well… here’s a lesson. Versace is bold, fierce, empowering and every single piece of the collection is wearable. Deal with it.

So do I have to bring my whole wardrobe back to the 60s ? /

Of course not. Milan clearly showed this time that it was an established ‘venue’ in the Fashion Weeks, especially now since New York is about to rob Paris’ prestige and that many global cities start to get attention with their fashion weeks (can you hear me Stockholm, Amsterdam ?). Almost all of the designers went for the sixities inspiration, but it’s just an inspiration. I’d say that instead maybe you can add some colours in wardrobe, ice blue, lime green and yellow maybe, forget about tight jeans and pants, this autumn it’s all about volume, bringing the cool and the chic together, at least in Milan.


Bonus: Jeremy Scott’s debut at Moschino, superfab.

Bisou !

(c) Photo from Dazed Digital / All videos courtesy of Elle 

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Salvaje’s Update & New Things Coming

I know it’s been almost a couple weeks since I haven’t post anything, but don’t worry more exciting things are in the work.

First of all I created a new category called ‘Fashion PR’ where I’ll post some post about Fashion PR along with career updates since I’m a PR student (for the moment) I would like to give an insight of what PR especially in Fashion. You can expect posts about how it works in the industry, tips to find an internship/job, debates about changes in the industry, that kind of things you know.

There again, don’t worry I’ll still keep the glossy side of the blog with style picks and more personal looks coming very soon. Especially since I dropped my bottle of fabric conditioner on a pile of jeans and trousers and ruined them in seconds. It happens that I just need a ‘wardrobe revamp’, what a coincidence…

I also created several header to make the blog more interactive, all of them are created by me and inspired by the brand hi-jacking trend going on since the last 2 years approx.

Stay tuned,

Bisou !

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Instaweek in London

Just a quick post with some pictures from my Instagram’s account (follow me @vaguesalvaje !). Since the sales will be over soon I used my free time to go from store to store, trying to find some pieces missing in my wardrobe.

Printed Shirt – H&M
Jumper – Zara
Coated Jean – Zara

I haven’t really shopped at Zara during the last two years, but I have to admit that I have never bought that much things from them than I did this month. However, even if I really liked this coated jean, I found a better one at Topman after my visit to Zara, so… I took it. Pictures are coming soon. I was looking for a cobalt blue sweater and oh surprise Zara had one ! But since I saw this fluffy jumper from the Louis Vuitton AW14 show a couple days ago, I returned it and went looking for one like that. Still haven’t found it, any folks at Vuitton who want to send me one ? I’ll wear it everyday, I promise.

Cotton Blazer Jacket – Zara
Sweater – Isabel Marant x H&M

I found this cool cotton blazer, very ‘Isabel Marant x H&M’ in fact. Instant crush. Effortless cool I’d say. Anyway, if you want it go check at your local Zara since it’s already sold-out on their online shop.

Coming tomorrow -> The purple edit ! If you read the trend report from the PFW, you saw that purple is one of this season’s color and since I fancy this color I’ll prepare a little edit for you boys and girls, there’s no need to wait February until the pieces arrive in store, there’s already plenty of purple around.

Bisou !

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Trend Report : Paris Fashion Week AW14

PFW is now over, after London’s young and fresh Collections: Men, Milan opened the path to the serious things, followed now by Paris. Some of the trends we’ve seen in Milan are being confirmed in Paris, so here’s a little recap.

Purple is the new black /

Yes, purple is one of the color this season. Announced a few month back by trend forecasting agencies, designers took the advice and whether  it’s lavender or electric, there’s every shades for every tastes. Dries van Noten went all purple, Kenzo got some lavender and I have to admit that I’m already crazy about this color-block sweater you can see below. Overall, there has been at least one purple piece in almost every designer’s collections, so expect to see plenty of purple soon at your Zara and Topman stores!

From left to right : Dries Van Noten / Kenzo

From left to right : Dries Van Noten / Kenzo

Cobalt Blue /

Is back. Blue is one of the basic colors, so basically it’s always around the corner from one season to another. This season the cobalt shade was dominant but there’s also been some navy blue here and there. This Vuitton ‘hairy’ sweater drove me completely crazy, I need one right now.

From left to right : Louis Vuitton / Maison Martin Margiela / Kenzo

From left to right : Louis Vuitton / Maison Martin Margiela / Dries Van Noten


Salvaje Animals /

I think this season they thought about me and wanted to be in middle of the Vague Salvaje. I’m telling you this because we’ve already had a glimpse of leopard at LC:M, but now Balmain went completely leopard, from head to toe. Ok I’m may be exaggerating a little bit, there’s only shoes and jackets. I really liked Balmain’s collection, especially the mix between the military theme and the leopard prints. They were one of the few to put the khaki back on the runway. Again, Tisci’s graphic prints were all over Givenchy’s collection and I spotted one very salvaje lion-printed neoprene sweater. However, I have to admit that except this one and maybe a couple more, I wasn’t very inspired by this Givenchy AW14 collection. Even if the prints stayed true to Tisci’s ‘blueprint’ I don’t think they’ll become as famous as the Rotweiller or the Madonna prints. Anyway we’ll see.

From left to right : Balmain / Givenchy

From left to right : Balmain / Givenchy


Minimal brown /

There’s been a lot of brown during this PFW, especially camel. I really love this color and I don’t know why but if I had to choose a color to describe Paris, I’d say camel. Camel reminds me of the autumn, promenades in le Jardin des Tuileries, there’s some sort of nostalgia in the Camel I think. Ok I should stop I’m starting to sound like a drama queen now. That being said, let’s get back to brown. Apart from the camel, I’ve spotted some darker shades of brown, at Rick Owens’ for instance. Part of the Louis Vuitton’s collection consisted in camel garments, suits, shirts, t-shirts… What I really, and I mean really, loved was these sharp and minimalist cuts. Oh dear lord, I almost fainted especially when I saw camel top and trousers (picture in the middle, exist also in mineral grey). I like minimalist clothes, so I can tell you that I was more than pleased when I saw that. Talking about minimalism, there’s a resurgence of interest in it but with a ‘happier’ note, leaving the cold black/white/grey trio in the closet.

From left to right : Dries Van Noten / Louis Vuitton / Carven

From left to right : Dries Van Noten / Louis Vuitton / Carven

Key pieces /

The bomber jacket. It’s back (again), it will be everywhere, it will suit perfectly with your suit and tie (think sport-chic) or your acid washed jeans if you’re more grungy, it’s already available everywhere so go buy one if you already haven’t. Sweaters and sweaters again, prints, B&W, they’re still there; watch out.

Bomber is one of the key pieces / Julien David AW14

Bomber jacket is one of the key pieces / Julien David AW14

Special Note /

To Saint Laurent. To be honest I’m a big fan of disco-rebel-biker inspired collections we’ve been seeing since Hedi Slimane arrived. The biker jacket and the glitter long blazer are definitely making a statement. Bow down.

Saint Laurent AW14

Saint Laurent AW14

Bisou !

(c) All photos are courtesy of GQ France 

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Salvaje’s Outfit: Sunset and palm trees of January

I enjoyed my holiday break in Marseille, France, a few weeks ago to shoot this outfit. The place you see is ‘Le Corbusier’, built by the same man who gave his name to this construction. I’m always captivated by the aesthetic of this building and the peace that reigns on its rooftop.

On the 'Corbusier' rooftop in Marseille, FranceBiker Jacket – Topman
Jumper – Versace x H&M
Slim Jean – Zara
Shoes – Nike Air Vortex 

So this day I decided to wear palms and blue, first of all because I love prints, especially tropical and baroque as I told you in my previous post but also because this jumper is very precious to me. Even if it’s almost 4 years-old I always took care of it. I know this sounds a little bit odd, but there’s some garments that I like so much that I want to keep them in good condition so I treat them with the greatest care in the world, whether it’s a designer piece or not.

Sunset

Le Corbusier, Marseille, France

Floral and tropical are still in the air, so if I suggest you get a floral sweater or bomber jacket if you haven’t already had. As you can see I’m all green and blue, but be careful with those colors. Blue is ok, but green is a bit tricky since you can’t pair it with everything. I personally thinks something like my Versace x H&M jumper goes very well with blue, tobacco and maybe yellow (I haven’t tried that one yet). Hopefully now you see more and more clothes and accessories in teal green which is more ‘discreet’ and easier to mix and match with other colors.

Taken on the moment

Taken on the moment

When it comes to running shoes, I don’t know what to think. This ‘sport-chic’ thing is still on and to be honest even I think that running shoes should be used for…running, I’m having trouble getting rid of them. The thing is, you feel so confortable in them that you don’t want to trade them with a pair of loafers or brogues anymore.

Bisou !

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Versace, Milan, Leather and Cowboys

Versace AW14 / Milan Fashion Week

Versace AW14 / Milan Fashion Week

Today is the last day of Milan Men Fashion Week. So far one of the only runway show I’ll remember will be Versace’s. Of course. First of all because Versace is one my favorite ‘designer’, and second of all because Donatella is my idol. Not since Lady Gaga’s song, since a long time, I can’t remember to be honest. Anyway, Donatella gave us a good surprise by offering us a sensational runway show, almost diva-esque, daring. Yes she dared to put the leather pants back in the business, and what a business are those cowboys boots and rhinestones horseshoes ! Ok I have to admit’s that sometimes my eyes were more focused on the models instead of the clothes but there’s no harm looking at the side dishes on the menu, right?

Versace AW14 / Milan Fashion Week

Versace AW14 / Milan Fashion Week

Another highlight of this collection is those famous silk shirts. Donatella brought back a revamped version of Gianni’s classic prints, which I have to admit drove me completely crazy when I saw them. I am a huge fan of Gianni’s silk shirt, especially those with baroque or tropical prints. For the moment my personal collection is only composed of only 2 Versace’s shirt but it will be hard this time to resist, if you can afford it (count at least £700 for a Versace’s silk shirt) go for it as soon as they’re out because they won’t last long.
That being said, let’s get back to the silk shirts. There was almost 4 of them, cowboy-themed of course and there was even one that looked very familiar to me, I don’t know if it’s a re-edition or not but one of the models was sporting this stunning indian/cowboy shirt from Gianni era, in black and blue.

Versace AW14 silk shirt / Milan Fashion Week

Versace AW14 silk shirt / Milan Fashion Week

Here is a picture of the ‘original’ one, from Gianni Versace (circa 1992/93).

Vintage Gianni Versace shirt : 1992

Vintage Gianni Versace shirt : 1992

Once again, Donatella stayed true to the DNA of Versace, even more this time than before I would say. Even if the cowboy theme is not recurrent in Versace’s history (apparently there never was any cowboy-themed collection for men according to Donatella), it has already been explored by Gianni in the past, in 1992 to be exact with a campaign featuring supermodels Yasmeen and Christi, all dressed in leather-cowgirl.

Gianni Versace Signature campaign / 1992

Gianni Versace Signature campaign / 1992

It was a daring collection, bold choices and colors, black, camel, red, blue, teal green were all marvelously applied on leather, fur or silk fabrics. As always, Donatella appeared after the cowboys’ show. She smiled, she waved, she conquered.

Versace AW13 collection / Milan Fashion Week

Versace FW14 collection / Milan Fashion Week

Bisou !

(c) pictures from WWD

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Salvaje’s Diary: Back in London and on Social Medias

It’s been a few days since I’m back in London and sales are still there, so you know my wallet’s been burning a little bit. Here are some of my findings, here and there, from a fitting room to another.

White Slim Shirt – COS
Patterned Sweater – COS

 

Of course COS is among my favorite brand, I own a couple of things from them and I have to admit that they clearly passed the test of time, in terms of trend and quality. So go for it, online or in-store, buy everything you can !

Ain’t Laurent Without Yves Tee
Black Skinny Jean – Indigo & Maine

I also made a quick stop at Urban Outfitters, since I was desperately looking at a black skinny jean I thought I’d give them a chance and..bingo! I bought that black skinny jean from UO’s brand Indigo & Maine. Some of them were on sales at £30 but the size I took (W29) was priced at £55 because some times they put some discounts of pairs that were on the display table blabla -nonsense excuse from the salesman-, anyway I needed it so I bought it.

IMG_1058

Black Skinny Jean – Indigo & Maine
Braided Portfolio Case – Zara
Limited Edition Leather Boots – Zara
Flower Tee – Zara

Usually I’m not a big Zara fan, even though I have to admit that they ofter have some good replicas of designer clothes I do not buy frequently things from them. But this time was quite a big surprise. I got tempted by their online store so I ventured myself in those endless pages of clothes from their catalogue. I ordered the portfolio case, the tee and the boots, got them delivered to a store and when I opened the pandora box, dear lord I fainted.

The portfolio was the perfect size to put my laptop in, it’s not real leather though but it looks fairly good. Then it was a pleasant surprise to see that the t-shirt was made in Portugal, meaning it’s from a limited line and better quality.  When I opened the boots’ shoebox, I almost had a heart attack, then when I looked at the price tag, I passed out. I’m a bit exaggerating on this one but to be honest I got them at £49.99 instead of £129 and the best part is that they’re made of 100% cow leather and made in Spain, so bravo Zara ! They’re part from the Zara Studio Line, which consists in a very limited line of garments (for men and women) manufactured in Europe only with exquisite and quality fabrics. Most of the time there’s only a few pieces available for each garments, and these ones were all gone in 2 days. Maybe you can still get your hands on a pair if you check at your local Zara store, sometimes they have stuff that aren’t listed on the online store anymore.

Zara Limited Edition leather boots

Ok so now let’s talk a bit about social medias, just so you know Vague Salvaje is on Instagram, Twitter and Tumblr so feel free to follow me on these platforms !

Instagram -> @vaguesalvaje
Twitter -> @vaguesalvaje
Tumblr -> vaguesalvaje.tumblr.com

Bisou !

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London Collection Men: The report

LCM is over. Now the curtains have come down it is time to make a trend recap. A/W14 will be blacker than ever, printed or checked.

Black /
Is going to be there again next season. But this time some white and grey are added. Black has been quite present on the runways and streets in 2013, especially since this ‘sports chic’ trend emerged with a bunch of leather panelled sweaters, trousers and even blazers (watch out Zara). No black leather-panelled pieces for this season, except at Topman design, but it seems like every pieces of the wardrobe got a black treatment, which I have to admit is not shame because this colour can be paired with almost anything.

Burberry Prorsum AW14

Burberry Prorsum AW14

I particularly liked A Sauvage black sweaters (reminds me a bit of Givenchy’s) and velour pants. Agi & Sam went all checked and stripped, in black and white of course, and while many shows embraced a gothic/S&M vibe, they showed a functional collection. Cuts are sharp, sometimes raw, and most pieces could last for seasons.

A Sauvage AW14

A Sauvage AW14

Checks /
Are now establishing themselves as a durable trend. I was thinking that it would be ephemeral but I guess I was wrong. There was a breakthrough of checks during this autumn, especially since Lady Gaga started to sport these YSL flannel checked shirt. This is the moment where the trend went from the runways to the streets. Well, next season will be checked again, so this time I might add some to my wardrobe, especially something like this A Sauvage (again!) flannel pant or this Topman Design PVC jacket.

From Left to Right: Agi & Sam AW14 / Topman Design AW14 / A Sauvage AW14

From Left to Right: Agi & Sam AW14 / Topman Design AW14 / A Sauvage AW14

Prints/
Are still there. Sibling brought back the leopard print, Katy Eary took us to hell with devil-printed garments, baroque at Burberry Prorsum and psychedelic at Christopher Shannon, flowers were also part of the game. This season again there’s prints for every taste and every styles, so unless you want to look like your grandma’s wallpaper, pick them carefully.

Christopher Shannon AW14

Christopher Shannon AW14

Sibling AW14

Sibling AW14

Katie Eary AW14

Katie Eary AW14

Special mention:
To Burberry Prorsum – I over-liked the attitude of the models, the vintage-dandy style, it’s a triple A for you, as usual. I also spotted some Navajo/ethnic prints (especially a bag and a scarf), would it be a comeback of the ethnic trend?

So if we sum up, this AW14 colours are black, white, red and a bit of grey and navy. Some classics remains such as brown/camel and you might even go Olive Green with Topman Design. Checks are still there so as flower prints.

The good thing is that we won’t have to undergo a wardrobe-makeover to look up to date, and wait before throwing away your old Navajo-Aztec printed stuff, they might come back next season.

Bisou !

(c) pictures from: GQ UK, DazedDigital

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Salvaje City: Marseille

Rooftop of Le Corbusier in Marseille, France

Rooftop of Le Corbusier in Marseille, France

Marseille is my hometown. This is where I was born, where I grew up, where most of my memories from the past 21 years are. I have mixed feelings about this city. On one hand, there’s some dazzling landscapes and unexpected places but on the other hand it has a tremendous lack of excitement.

The city is busy at weekend especially Fridays and Saturdays but it seems like the city is asleep during the rest of the week. Even though I knew that since the beginning (as I’ve been living there for years), it became even more obvious since I moved to London.

They say there’s no place like home and I have to admit that I had some of the wildest moments in this city, whether I like it or not.

If you’re coming here for fashion, especially high and edgy fashion, pass your turn. It’s quite a shame but the city offers a very few places for a quality shopping. Of course you’ll find plenty of Zara and H&M (however you still might end up disappointed if you’re used to the Oxford Circus-like stores), but finding some Versace is nearly impossible. However there’s a Kenzo store, not much frequented and that’s one good thing because you can find every collection (from ‘The Eye’ collection to the permanent one or even the now classic Tiger). Even during the sales, there are still plenty of sweaters and pants that usually  go in seconds in Paris or London. Just so you know, Armani, Hermes and Vuitton are also in town.

But, yes there’s a but, if you like to party, want to spend some wild nights among the fashionistas/hipsters/local dandies, this is it. Again, Marseille is going salvaje only during weekends, e.g Fridays and Saturdays (sometimes Thursdays can be wild too).

I still remember those nights chilling out at ‘La Dame Noir’ on Thursdays, near the Vieux-Port, voguing and driving everyone crazy at the ‘One Again’ club near the beach… I spent a part of the summer at these rooftop parties at the ‘Friche Belle de Mai’, mixed with locals and some fabulous tourists I met.

And this is the exactly the vibe of this city. What I truly appreciate are those uncommon places, where you can get lost in the moment, party and live recklessly for a night. Of course there’s hundreds of places like this in the world, but there’s something here that makes you want to do it over and over. Because after the show is over, whatever your state of mind is, there’s this feeling of tranquillity mixed with a bit of melancholy. You’re not dazzled by the stress of your everyday life, routine is not catching you up.

Why ? Simply because life in Marseille isn’t agitated. There’s no rush, people live quietly here, take their time to do things and they do it with coolness and a smile on their faces. Marseille is cool, wildly cool.

Bisou !

Vieux-Port

The Vieux-Port is the centre of city

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Salvaje’s Outfit number 1

Coat – Topman
T-Shirt – H&M
Jean – H&M
Boots – H&M x Versace

I have to admit I played it safe for this first outfit. Basically I like to dress with functional clothes, adding some times a wild piece (it can be an accessory, a shirt etc…) but without looking casual. In other words, if I could describe the way I dress I would say that I dress in a wild functional way, but you tell me, you’re the fashion police here.

Let’s talk about functional, especially about the black skinny jean. I think this is a must-have in your wardrobe. You can mix-and-match it with almost everything, every colours, you can go chic, grunge, rock’n’roll, drag, whatever you like ! The one I’m wearing is from H&M and since then it has become my ‘battledress’.

Let me explain:  when I dance I need to feel confortable to vogue, when I drink it might end up on my jean by accident, same thing with food, when I have an interviews I like to look chic without wearing a suit and tie, in other words I need a jean that can survive any situations, and so do you !

So depending on your budget, your style and what you like, I think one should always have the black skinny jean in its wardrobe. It’s a basic. I’ll try to make a post about how to choose the perfect jean and what fits suits what type of legs. In the meantime, here is a below a short selection of black skinny jeans.

From left to right : ASOS Skinny Jean / Topman Spray On Jean / Dr Denim Skinny Jean

From left to right : ASOS Skinny Jean / Topman Spray On Jean / Dr Denim Skinny Jean

Bisou !

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