Milan Fashion Week is over and Paris is now closing the show. I know it’s a bit late but I just wanted to make a quick comment on Milan’s. If you haven’t seen all the runway shows yet, style.com them and prepare yourself to travel back in time next season.
Armani’s shade of grey /
Both Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani collections were toned in the grey palette, with some bits of black, white and even ice/aqua blue here and there. Overall, it’s very working-girl, lots of coats and blazer, tightened at the waist and very Mad Men sometimes and I insist on the ‘Men’ because more than ever it seems that Giorgio was inspired by men’s wardrobe just like JW Anderson was by women’s during LC:M.
Dolce’s fairy tale and Gabbana’s innocent girl /
D&G was certainly one of the highlights of this fashion week. The show itself was magnificent, perfectly staged and you can really feel the luxury and craftsmanship when you look at the collection. To be honest, most of the pieces are not very wearable unless you’re AdR or if you’re willing to spend thousands of dollars in a Bal Costumé outfit. But these little Red Ridding Hoods will certainly make unique archive pieces. Special mention to these medieval-knights ‘helmets’, Dolce’s went even further with the time-machine.
Gucci and Versace, yé yé /
These two really embraced the return to the sixties and when I look at their collections I can’t help but think about these yé-yé French girls. Of course each of them portrayed it differently but the main inspiration is in this era.
Gucci’s went all sixties with high-waist skirts, coats and and dresses with a roundish cut, signature of the sixties fashion. All in curves but very simple and minimal at the same time. However, thank god, they didn’t use the extravagant (and sometimes mauvais gout) colour palettes from the sixties, I mean these rusted orange, yellow and red with psychedelic prints. It’s all in the blue, green, peach and yellow pastels. And please, praise these aviator-starsky&hutchesque sunglasses. They’re just fa-bu-lous. I need a pair. Right now.
On the other hand, Donatella declined the modern cowboy she presented during Men’s Fashion Week last month into a female version. Versace’s whole new RTW AW14 collection is now consistent and turns around this concept. The sixties’ influence is not that obvious here, except the models’ hair and a couple dresses. Big medusa heads all-over, fringes and fierceness; this is what sums this collection up in a few words. Fierce all the time: when models walk, the jewellery, the bags, the clothes, everything. It’s just a real pleasure to watch the runway show and to the detractors who say that Versace’s clothes are not wearable and too extravagant, well… here’s a lesson. Versace is bold, fierce, empowering and every single piece of the collection is wearable. Deal with it.
So do I have to bring my whole wardrobe back to the 60s ? /
Of course not. Milan clearly showed this time that it was an established ‘venue’ in the Fashion Weeks, especially now since New York is about to rob Paris’ prestige and that many global cities start to get attention with their fashion weeks (can you hear me Stockholm, Amsterdam ?). Almost all of the designers went for the sixities inspiration, but it’s just an inspiration. I’d say that instead maybe you can add some colours in wardrobe, ice blue, lime green and yellow maybe, forget about tight jeans and pants, this autumn it’s all about volume, bringing the cool and the chic together, at least in Milan.
Bonus: Jeremy Scott’s debut at Moschino, superfab.
(c) Photo from Dazed Digital / All videos courtesy of Elle