PFW is now over, after London’s young and fresh Collections: Men, Milan opened the path to the serious things, followed now by Paris. Some of the trends we’ve seen in Milan are being confirmed in Paris, so here’s a little recap.
Purple is the new black /
Yes, purple is one of the color this season. Announced a few month back by trend forecasting agencies, designers took the advice and whether it’s lavender or electric, there’s every shades for every tastes. Dries van Noten went all purple, Kenzo got some lavender and I have to admit that I’m already crazy about this color-block sweater you can see below. Overall, there has been at least one purple piece in almost every designer’s collections, so expect to see plenty of purple soon at your Zara and Topman stores!
Cobalt Blue /
Is back. Blue is one of the basic colors, so basically it’s always around the corner from one season to another. This season the cobalt shade was dominant but there’s also been some navy blue here and there. This Vuitton ‘hairy’ sweater drove me completely crazy, I need one right now.
Salvaje Animals /
I think this season they thought about me and wanted to be in middle of the Vague Salvaje. I’m telling you this because we’ve already had a glimpse of leopard at LC:M, but now Balmain went completely leopard, from head to toe. Ok I’m may be exaggerating a little bit, there’s only shoes and jackets. I really liked Balmain’s collection, especially the mix between the military theme and the leopard prints. They were one of the few to put the khaki back on the runway. Again, Tisci’s graphic prints were all over Givenchy’s collection and I spotted one very salvaje lion-printed neoprene sweater. However, I have to admit that except this one and maybe a couple more, I wasn’t very inspired by this Givenchy AW14 collection. Even if the prints stayed true to Tisci’s ‘blueprint’ I don’t think they’ll become as famous as the Rotweiller or the Madonna prints. Anyway we’ll see.
Minimal brown /
There’s been a lot of brown during this PFW, especially camel. I really love this color and I don’t know why but if I had to choose a color to describe Paris, I’d say camel. Camel reminds me of the autumn, promenades in le Jardin des Tuileries, there’s some sort of nostalgia in the Camel I think. Ok I should stop I’m starting to sound like a drama queen now. That being said, let’s get back to brown. Apart from the camel, I’ve spotted some darker shades of brown, at Rick Owens’ for instance. Part of the Louis Vuitton’s collection consisted in camel garments, suits, shirts, t-shirts… What I really, and I mean really, loved was these sharp and minimalist cuts. Oh dear lord, I almost fainted especially when I saw camel top and trousers (picture in the middle, exist also in mineral grey). I like minimalist clothes, so I can tell you that I was more than pleased when I saw that. Talking about minimalism, there’s a resurgence of interest in it but with a ‘happier’ note, leaving the cold black/white/grey trio in the closet.
Key pieces /
The bomber jacket. It’s back (again), it will be everywhere, it will suit perfectly with your suit and tie (think sport-chic) or your acid washed jeans if you’re more grungy, it’s already available everywhere so go buy one if you already haven’t. Sweaters and sweaters again, prints, B&W, they’re still there; watch out.
Special Note /
To Saint Laurent. To be honest I’m a big fan of disco-rebel-biker inspired collections we’ve been seeing since Hedi Slimane arrived. The biker jacket and the glitter long blazer are definitely making a statement. Bow down.
(c) All photos are courtesy of GQ France